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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.